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The next part of your surf lesson is actually catching waves laying down - "belly boarding" - so you can feel the wave's power propelling you forward. The most common error is laying too far back on the board. You must be far enough forward so the board is flat in the water, not pointing upwards. Paddling your board "up hill" is inefficient, looks goofy and will not get you onto many waves. Move forward, about an arm's length from the nose. If you feel like the board will nose-dive, arch your back and neck until you have the nose just skimming above the surface. When paddling, the aim is to have the wave push you forward, rather than washing past you. If you feel like the wave will dump you nose-first, quickly slide the board forward so you are further back (actually, at this point, advanced surfers use their weightlessness to spring to their feet - but this comes with much more practise!) |
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Once you have learnt to catch waves laying down, it's back on the beach to learn how to push up, distributing body weight correctly and jumping up in your preferred "sideways" position. Your back foot should be over or just in front of your fins and your front foot should be about a metre forward. "Natural footers" have their left foot forward, while "Goofy footers" have their right foot forward. Natural footers surf right-handers on their "forehand" (facing the wave) and left-handers on their "backhand" (back to the wave). This is the exact opposite for goofy footers. |
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Once in the water, paddle hard for the wave until you feel it push you forward, then spring straight from the laying position to your feet WITHOUT stopping on your knees. This requires lots of practice, so make sure you can do this on the sand before paddling out. Remember: spring to your feet, don't drag your body up slowly - this is the most common mistake. |
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Keep trying, even if you wipe out a few times. It is not easy to get your balance immediately, but once you have made it to your feet a couple of times, the challenge is to stay up, then try a few simple turns. |